The Spinlock cleat is mounted on the port side of the Xenon aluminium bridge. Its purpose is to provide two operational modes; i) to act very simply as a 'deck eye' allowing the Gennaker launch line to travel freely through the device in either direction and ii) To provide a normal clam cleat action on the Gennaker launch line, the primary purpose of which is to lock the Launch line in position with the Gennaker near the top of the mast.  The Spinlock cleat provides a rapid means of switching beween these two modes of operation. It is also used to lock the Launch line with slight tension after a Gennaker retrieval - this prevents the launch line from blowing in the wind and interferring with the action of the Jib tell-tales.

To test its operation; with one hand hold the line on the bow side of the Spinlock stationary and with the other hand pull the stern side line sharply up and down. The spinlock will snap into the different modes. test the Launch line for grip and free running.

In general the Spinlock is a reliable piece of kit and gives very little trouble. However its screw fastenings have a history of working loose. Check these for tightness as part of the annual maintenance using a Pozidrive PZ2 (cross-head) screwdriver. The most likely cause of poor operation is dirt or mud getting into the mechanism to inhibit the switching action. The mechanism is a combination of nylon/ plastic /stainless steel and so cleaning can be done with a hose or under a tap when the unit has been removed from the dinghy. 

Dissembly of the Spinlock Cleat

 The Spinlock cleat is in two sections: the topmost part is the Cleat section, the lower section is the swivel base. The upper section is fastened by two cross-head machine screws. The front screw is readily accessible by simply moving the Launch line to one side. The rear screw is hidden by the Launch line. Expose the rearmost screw by feeding the Launch line into the cleat and tease out a loop through the top of the cleat (or remove the Launch line from the cleat). The rear screw is then easily visible. When removing these screws take care not to lose the bottom nuts. The nuts are countersunk into the bottom of the cleat and may appear to be fixtures... but they are not! Keep a finger over them whilst unscrewing the screws and then use the screws to push the nuts out for safe keeping.  With both screws removed the top cleat section of the Spinlock cleat is free. Dirt and debris can be removed with a small screwdriver and the whole mechanism washed under a tap. A dose of lubricant such as WD40 water repellant fluid will restore smooth movement but remember to remove excess fluid with a paper towel etc.

The lower section of the Spinlock cleat is the swivel base. It is fastened to the aluminium bridge of the Xenon by three Pozidrive PZ2 cross-head screws. A hole in the swivel enables each of the fastening screws to be exposed in turn. There is little servicing beyond cleaning that can be done on the base section. A rivet holds the bearings in the races (the tracks in which the bearing run). Small castellations around the ball bearing races enable debris to be blown out, again easiest done using a pressurized can of WD40 or similar lubricant with a small nozzle pushed into the castellations. Again remember to remove the excess lubricant. (Note: use of such a lubricant is great, it blows out any muck and restores smooth movement and operation but.... there is a downside. The lubricant can attract debris in its own right, particularly in dusty conditions. In extremes this could result in rapid clogging of the mechanism, so use your judgement and if the Xenon is used in dusty conditions either do not use lubricant or after use remove as much excess as possible - a water hose jet is an alternative cleaning method if you don't mind getting wet!).

Note also the two nuts belonging to the upper section fastening screws

After cleaning simply replace the screws and tighten securely. The Spinlock cleat should swivel easily but should not tilt (tilting is a warning that the base screws are perhaps coming loose or the bearinga are damaged or missing (expensive!). The cleat section should have a clean snap action between the two operational modes. Threading the Launch line is very simple, just pull the cleat section up into the release position and thread the Launch line.