This section describes the rigging that is done in readiness for each sailing session assuming the Gennaker is stowed away from the dinghy when not sailing - it assumes that the Standing rigging for the Gennaker is in place.  After the Gennaker sail has been fully rigged whenever safe to do so have a test launch whilst ashore and check that the Gennaker flies freely on both tacks.  It is truly amazing how often this check exposes rigging errors! In very windy conditions a launch ashore could be potentially dangerous. See some packing suggestions to remove the need for a test launch.

 
1.    Before the mast was raised the free block on the Gennaker halyard should have been fastened to the ring at the front top of the mast using the ‘D’ shackle. If the Gennaker halyard is terminated in a bobble the halyard will already be threaded through this block. If not thread the Gennaker halyard through the block and temporarily tie off at the ring on the base of the mast. Raise the mast (see Rigging the Mast).
 Tip: During sailing the gennaker hoist halyard often has the annoying habit of getting entangled with the end of the spreader stays. To prevent this use a large nylon cable tie, passed through the centre spreader clamp. Pass the hoist halyard through this tie to prevent any possibility of the halyard snagging on the end of the spreader.
 

2.    Find the Tack of the Gennaker (helpfully marked ‘T’) and attach the Tack line emerging from the front of the Bowsprit pole using either the bobble or a half hitch with the overhand knot acting as a stopper. Make sure that the knot is not holding the Tack of the Gennaker in a twisted position.
 

3.    Run your hand up the Luff of the Gennaker to its Head (helpfully marked ‘H’). Keeping the Gennaker luff untwisted release the Gennaker halyard from its tie off and fasten the bobble to the Head of the Gennaker, or alternatively use a bowline knot.
 

4.    Find the Clew of the Gennaker (marked ‘C’). Find the centre of the Gennaker sheet by folding it in two to form a loop. Pass the loop through the clew cringle (eyelet) and pass the tails through the loop.  Ensure the ‘Larks foot’ knot so formed seats as smoothly as possible around the clew (in use this knot will be dragged around the jib wire hence the need to have a smooth flat knot). Thread the respective sheets through the port and starboard ratchets in the correct direction but as you do so make doubly sure that the Gennaker sheets are outside the Jib wire and have not trapped the Gennaker downhaul line. The gennaker ratchets are so-called automatic ratchets. The ratchet action only comes into play when significant tension is applied to the gennaker sheets. Pass one end of the gennaker sheets into the gennaker ratchet block, making sure that you follow the direction indicated by the ratchet arrow. Test for the correct direction by threading the sheet around the ratchet and giving a good pull on the sheet in either direction and you will hear the ratchet action operate. A natty refinement most useful in strong winds.
 
Often Xenon users prefer to tie the ends of the Gennaker sheets together across the dinghy using a reef knot to make the join, coupled with overhand knots on the extreme end of each sheet to prevent the sheets from working loose whilst sailing. I find this a very useful tip which is very helpful when rapidly gybing. (I also find it useful to tie the Jib sheets together). If you prefer not to tie the ends together then it is important to place a stopper knot in each sheet allowing at least 150mm of free end to make it easier to grab the end when gybing.
 
5.    Attach the Gennaker downhaul. This is the line that emerges from the front mouth of the chute, ie is normally tied off around the furler unit for storage. It needs to be connected to the Gennaker patch fastenings.
Two important points to note when threading the downhaul line.
   i    Make sure that the downhaul line is inside (to the rear of) the Tack line and not looped around it in any way (if the Gennaker downhaul is tangled with the Tack line the Gennaker may be twisted when it is launched).
   ii.    Ensure that the Gennaker downhaul line is outside (to the front of) the Gennaker sheets. If the downhaul line is inadvertently threaded to the rear of the Gennaker sheets pulling on the sheets to start a gybe will also partially pull in the downhaul line. The Gennaker may only partially fly in this condition.
 
6.   After checking for the above problems thread the downhaul end upwards through the Gennaker lower patch cringle (small ring). At this stage slide on (not tie) a bobble with its smooth side downwards (this is to prevent the bowline knot used to attach the line to the upper webbing patch from jamming in the lower patch cringle). Finally use a bowline knot to tie the downhaul line to the webbing strap of the upper patch in the Gennaker.
 
7.    With the Gennaker sail fully rigged it should now be possible to pull the Gennaker into its chute using the downhaul line. When correctly packed in the chute the Tack, Head and Clew cringles will be visible in the mouth of the chute. If wind conditions permit it is best to carry out a practice launch of the Gennaker on land just to check that the rigging is correct. During this check pull in the gennaker sheets on each side to make sure that all aspects of the rig are correct. If the wind is high then carry out the check behind a sheltering building, or have an assistant prevent the gennaker from fully inflating. The Xenon will suffer damage, as will anyone nearby, if the dinghy is pulled over on land. This check often reveals minor rigging problems.
8.  Do remember to tape up the shackle linking the Jib wire to the Furler unit. It is all too easy for the Gennaker to snag on this link and, in the worst case scenario, the gennaker may drop under the boat, fill with water and the force of a speeding boat will easily rip the delicate gennaker fabric.
 Finally a simple rigging tip: After dropping the Gennaker the hoisting line is often left slack and blowing in the wind.  It frequently lodges on the end of the port spreader arm and is sometimes difficult to dislodge, interfering with the subsequent launch. A simple remedy is to tension the line and recleat the spinlock - however in the excitement of the moment I often forget to do this. Avoid this problem entirely by using a large cable tie looped through the port side central support of the spreader arms to act as a guide and retainer. Leave the cable tie as loose as possible and thread the hoist line through the cable tie and on up to the gennaker halyard block.  This will prevent the slack line from fouling the spreader arms.